Military fashion has always carried a certain mystique. Not just through rugged fabrics, iconic silhouettes, or utilitarian detailing, but also through the cryptic codes printed on labels, jackets, bags, and gear. These combinations of letters and numbers aren’t random. They reflect a functional system designed to identify models, materials, and missions. Today, these codes have become part of the visual language that shapes contemporary fashion, vintage collecting, and workwear aesthetics.
At the heart of it all is the “M” system, standing for Model, followed by the year a piece was introduced. The M-41, M-51, and M-65 aren’t just jackets - they’re milestones in U.S. military design and anchors of modern menswear. Meanwhile, abbreviations like BDU (Battle Dress Uniform) and ACU (Army Combat Uniform) define entire eras of military style, from the Woodland camo 80s to the digital patterns of the 2000s.
Accessories speak the same coded language. Systems like ALICE and MOLLE shaped everything from backpacks to utility pouches, introducing modularity long before it became a design trend. And behind nearly every authentic piece hides an NSN - a National Stock Number, listing the item in military inventory, now a hallmark of genuine surplus.
Decoding these letters unveils a deeper truth: military fashion is built on clarity, purpose, and evolution. When we wear these pieces today, we’re not just borrowing a look - we’re borrowing a lineage.
For anyone interested in diving deeper into the world of military style, we strongly recommend Fashion Army by Matthieu Nicol — the very book from which the image in this article originates.
Key Clothing Codes
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M-41 / M-43 / M-51 / M-65 – Model numbers and their years.
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BDU – Battle Dress Uniform (1980s–2000s).
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ACU – Army Combat Uniform (modern digital camo).
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OG-107 / OG-507 – Olive Green uniform standards.
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HBT – Herringbone Twill (WWII work uniforms).
Key Accessory & Gear Codes
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ALICE – Classic load-bearing equipment system.
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MOLLE – Modular equipment with webbing loops.
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NSN – National Stock Number for inventory tracking.
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PASGT – Kevlar helmet and armor system.
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IFAK – Individual First Aid Kit.